New Bouldering Venue in Bella Coola

Bouldering is a style of rock climbing undertaken without a rope and (normally) limited to very short climbs (known as problems) over a specialised crash pad. It is typically practiced on large natural boulders. On the west coast of Canada, Squamish, 45 mins north of Vancouver, has traditionally been the mecca for bouldering with a huge area of granite boulders in a small area, with easy access from the highway.

Six hours north from Vancouver 'as the crow flies' the Bella Coola Valley is a wilder and remoter version of the busier commuter belt of Squamish. Bella Coola is the adventurous sister and can now boast bouldering problems to rival any that Squamish offers.


Last year myself and a friend made an unscheduled stop on a logging road 13km from the highway enroute to the stunning Odegaard falls (a bigger version of Shannon Falls in Squamish). I had caught a glimpse of a large boulder tucked away in the forest. It turned out to be a massive boulder field of featured granite rock set amongst a magical temperate rainforest of thick carpet moss and creeks. This Magic Kingdom of boulders has until now remained undeveloped.

The popularity of bouldering has risen significantly in recent years with bouldering venues being developed throughout the world. After dedicating the last couple of weeks to developing a new sport climbing crag in the valley it was finally time to explore the Magic Kingdom and I wasn't disappointed, finding a sea of world class granite boulder problems.

From a slopey rail traverse on the backside of the roadside boulder to a large slab with a series of variations to a large arete high ball (don't fall!) there is something for everyone. The grades range from easy V0 to mid range V5/6 and it looks like atleast two harder V8/9 and beyond.

At the moment there are about a dozen problems ready to climb and I am in the process of developing more this week (the weather forecast is perfect!). This involves cleaning the rock of dirt and moss to expose the features underneath. It has minimal impact on the environment and allows Bella Coola to add bouldering to its list of adventurous activties and another reason to visit this unique wilderness paradise.

The Magic Kingdom is on the Nusatsum logging road at the 13km signpost right side of the road on the top of the roadside boulder. (This is also the access road for Odegaard Falls.) The logging road is directly off the Bella Coola highway at the hairpin bend before you reach Hagensborg). Just past the 13km marker there is a pull out to park. If you miss it you will get to the bridge over Nusatsum river where there is a great swimming hole 5 mins up river!